By: Sarah M. Guerra
If you’ve ever watched the Belgian Grand Prix on TV and thought Spa looks peaceful and spacious, let me stop you right there. Spa is stunning, yes, but during race weekend it becomes a small city powered entirely by horsepower, beer, and questionable bus infrastructure.
When my husband Ricky and I went, we knew lodging could be tricky. Spa doesn’t exactly have a surplus of hotels sitting around waiting for race fans. What it does have is a genius trackside tent village, and that’s what we booked. Honestly, it ended up being the best decision we made all weekend.
The “Gurt” (Glam + Dirt) Setup
We stayed in a ready-made tent that came with surprising luxuries considering we were sleeping in a field with thousands of other people who also love fast cars.
Our tent came with:
• Sleeping pads that were… shockingly comfortable (enough)
• Battery cell phone chargers
• A buffet-style dining tent
• Actual walking distance to the track
The walking distance part ended up being clutch. You do not want to rely on the bus system unless you’re powered by pure optimism.
The Spa Bus System: Built for Character, Not Comfort
Here’s the deal: Spa’s bus system works, technically. The buses run. They arrive eventually. They get you where you need to go. But imagine being packed in standing room only for 30 minutes on a winding mountain road, shoulder to shoulder with strangers, all of you collectively testing your proprioception as the bus leans around each curve. If you have even a medium annoyance threshold for crowds or motion, this might be your villain origin story.
Walking from the tent village to the track felt like a luxury spa treatment in comparison.
So yes, stay by the track if you can tolerate glamping. Your sanity will thank you.
The Bathroom Situation (Let’s Have a Laugh Together)
Here’s my main complaint about our glamping experience (and I do use glamping generously). Our tent village had two main bathroom setups: urinals and stalls. Simple. Logical. Except this required the men to only be able to use the urinals for half their business, and the other stalls? Prime real estate for everything else.
So picture this: Women waiting in line, confused. Men emerging from the women’s stall area looking a little too casual. And honestly kind of hilarious (only in retrospect) once you surrendered to the chaos of it all.
If you can laugh and you’re a woman who can hold your breath long enough to do your business, this tent village life is for you.
A Monday Morning Disclaimer You’ll Be Glad You Read
One thing no one warns you about: the race buses stop running after Sunday. As in, completely. We woke up Monday morning with no transportation, no shuttles, no taxis, and a city bus system that ran every few hours and was already filled beyond capacity. We didn’t have a flight to catch, thankfully, but plenty of people did and the panic was real.
Our solution? Hitchhiking. Yes, seriously. We found a woman who agreed to drive us 30 minutes to the nearest train station for 100 euros. She spoke none of the languages our group spoke and yet she was unbelievably kind, smiling and chatting away in a language we all politely pretended to understand. It was chaotic but also one of those travel stories you end up telling forever.
But like…Belgians can Party
One of my favorite parts about this race is I think it had one of the best race atmospheres outside of the actual race. They served beer (we also easily snuck in a box of wine lol), many races don’t allow alcohol within the gates. They had awesome DJs, and just good vibes. It was giving off festival vibes inside the gates. It’s one of the most fun set ups of all the races I’ve been to at this point.
Tips for Actually Enjoying Spa Like a Pro
Spa is incredible, but it’s also intense. Here’s what I’d recommend:
1. Stay Trackside
If walking distance is an option, take it. Your future self, wedged into a bus with 87 other sweaty race fans, will thank you.
2. Buy Seats
Yes, general admission is cheaper. It also requires you to stake your claim early, climb over what feels like an entire hillside of humans, and get in and out like you’re auditioning for an action movie. Seats aren’t just comfort; they’re strategy. Spa is also notorious for a wet race. I ruined my favorite pair of Ons (pour one out for those overpriced shoes) climbing up the hillside which was muddy from the rain.
3. Embrace the Adventure
Spa is stunning. The atmosphere is electric. The track walk alone is worth the trip. But expect crowds, mud, and moments of “Is this real life?” If that sounds fun, you’re exactly the person who will love the Spa experience.